Mount Isa to Longreach

September 14:
We are en route to Bouila. Our plan is to camp by the Burke River just beyond the racecourse. The Diamantina Development Road consists of a single strip of bitumen, with the occasional double lane for overtaking.

Today's fuel economy was the worst on our trip so far, with a reading of 19l/100Km, as we had been driving into a severe headwind throughout the journey. We stopped at Dajarra for morning tea. The town was once the largest cattle railway trucking depot in the world, where large herds were driven to Dajarra from the Northern Territory and loaded onto trains bound for the east coast. The advent of large road trains made this facility obsolete. Upon arrival, we found stretches of the river bed dry, but after following tracks further along the bank, we discovered a lovely stretch of water suitable for our campsite, where we set up for the night. Later in the afternoon, another four groups arrived in camper trailers and were able to drive further along the river than we could with our van.

Distance today: 312 km. Total distance: 5,635 km.

September 15:
 
We left Bouila at 10am after fuelling up and visiting the information centre. We had previously visited the Min Min Centre, which is also housed in the same building. We turned east onto the Kennedy Development Road, a single strip of bitumen with overtaking lanes every 30 kilometres. The Mitchell grass plains stretched to the horizon on both sides of the road and were only broken up by trees lining the dry creeks we crossed. We stopped at the Hamilton Hotel ruins for morning tea, which also has new toilet facilities and a tank water supply.

Our next stop was the Cawnpore Lookout, where we had lunch and took photos. The scenery from the lookout and the road is quite spectacular. The Mesa formations and colours reminded us of the type of country portrayed in old western movies.

From here, we had only a short drive to the Middleton Pub, where we camped across the road for the evening. We spent about an hour talking to the publican while having a beer before settling in for the afternoon under some shade next to the van.

During the rest of the afternoon, another four vehicles stopped at the pub, and just after 7pm, a van arrived and camped near us for the evening. The hotel was built during the Cobb & Co era and served as a change station where tired horses were replaced with fresh ones. It was one of the “Nine Pillars” of Cobb & Co. These Pillars represent the nine oldest and original change stations on the Winton to Bouila route, which was 240 miles (384 kilometres) long and took four days each way. The contract was held between 1895 and 1915. The Pillars included Winton, Elderslie, Woodstock, Middleton, Makunda Hotel, Lucknow, Warenda Bore, and Bouila.

An original Cobb & Co coach:

Imagine travelling on this suspension:

Distance today: 202 km. Total distance: 5837 km.

September 16:
 
We left early on our way to Winton, where we stopped for morning tea at the Matilda Centre, also known as the information centre. We had previously taken the tour and can highly recommend it. We planned to spend the next few days camped at Carisbrooke Station, run by Charles and Penny Phillott, so we rang ahead to let them know we were coming. Penny informed us that, with the higher temperatures they were now experiencing, we would have the place to ourselves. Just our sort of place!
We left Winton with 260 litres of diesel onboard, as we planned to continue south to Diamantina National Park and then onto Windorah. We headed west from Winton for 38 km before turning south onto the Old Cork Mail Road. We lowered our tyre pressures on the 4WD and van and continued another 42 km to Carisbrooke. We were met by Charles, who welcomed us and provided a mud map showing the different camping locations. Unpowered sites are $17 per night, offering spotless toilet and shower facilities, as well as a large tank of excellent drinking water. We camped near the old wool shed, which also houses a camp kitchen. We spent the rest of the day settling in and relaxing. Charles has mud maps of the property that you can purchase for self-drive tours.

Distance 259 km; total distance 6,096 km.

September 17:

 

We decided to have Charles take us on a 4WD sunset tour at $40 each. We highly recommend this tour. It’s BYO drinks, and Charles offers a lovely selection of 'nibbles’. First, we were taken up onto the escarpment overlooking the property, followed by a 30-minute walk back down into Python Gorge to see 1000-year-old Aboriginal rock paintings under a large overhang at the head of the gorge.

The tour was very informative as he pointed out different aspects around the station. We were able to view the “3 sisters formation” from many various angles. Then, as the sun began to set, we were taken to another viewing point of the "sisters" where we watched a magnificent sunset whilst having a cold "crownie".

Distance today 0. Total distance 6096 Km.

September 18:
 
Today's drive is only 90 km. We are heading to camp at the Old Cork Waterhole just down from the station of the same name. The waterhole is several kilometres long and several hundred metres wide, and it is a permanent waterhole on the Diamantina River. The old homestead is built on a rise overlooking the water. Old Cork was first settled in the 1860s, when pastoralists were applying for land along the Diamantina River. The homestead was built between 1880 and 1885 with local sandstone and imported timber from south-east Queensland.

We thought we would have the place to ourselves, but just after 4pm, two camper trailers arrived, though they camped at a considerable distance from us.

Distance 90 km; total distance 6,186 km.
September 19:
 
The drive south towards Diamantina National Park features some lovely scenery, especially the hills near the Mayne Hotel ruins.

 The hotel operated from 1888 to 1951 and was a popular resting spot for travellers, stockmen, and opal miners.

The drinks were kept cool in an underground cellar that was opened at night to let in the cool air and closed during the day to keep out the heat.

We entered the National Park, which was once part of the Diamantina Lakes Station and covered 507,000 hectares. It was a prized breeding and fattening property, and during good years, it could support up to 12,000 head of cattle. It was gazetted as a national park in 1992.

We set up camp at Hunters Gorge campground. We sat in the shade of the van as strong wind gusts caused chaos with the dusty conditions. It was so bad that opening any part of the van would have let in even more dust. When the wind finally died down at 4.30pm, the inside temperature of the van was 41 degrees.

Another useful accessory to take to the national park is a fly net because without one of these, you would go mad with the flies. We had run out of RID and only had Bushman, and they just loved it.

Distance: 148 km; Total distance: 6,334 km.
September 20: We set out at 7am to drive the 90 km Warracoota Circuit. The drive takes you past red sand hills, gibber plains, grasslands, lakes, and waterholes, as well as sites that were once used when it was a grazing property. The sites we enjoyed included Lake Constance, which now only fills when floodwater levels reach 4.5 metres.

Warracoota waterhole, which is another large body of water.

The Ruins, which contain several loose stone-wall structures believed to have been a settler outpost.

Green Tank built in the 1980s as a stock watering point. The 2011 floods damaged the dam wall, reducing its water storage capacity. The water here is much clearer than other waterholes in Diamantina because of the high level of gypsum in the surrounding soils. Gypsum was often added to tanks to clear the water.

 Gum Hole yards are built using gidgee and coolabah, which are some of Australia’s hardest timbers. The yards are constructed entirely with post and rail fencing.

And some lovely sand dunes:

After finishing the drive, we called into the other camp area, known as "Gum Hole". It also has water views, but was more suited to camper trailers and tents.
When we arrived back at our campsite at 11am, the wind was stronger than it had been yesterday, and the temperature was much worse. So, we decided to spend the remainder of the day in air-conditioned comfort. We hitched up the van and headed south.

 We passed Davenport Downs and Palparara.

Before turning east onto the Diamantina Development Road and finally stopping at 5.15 pm at the JC Hotel ruins site, which was well off the main road and a very nice camping area. Yet again, another place to ourselves. Distance 415 km. Total distance 6,749 km.

September 21/22/23:
Today's drive to Windorah was once again on a single-lane bitumen road. We stopped to purchase several items from the one and only small shop in the town and filled our 4^th water tank from a tap near the store that had a sign that said “feel free to use this filtered water from Coppers Creek” On the eastern side of Windorah is a solar farm that was commissioned in 2009. It can produce up to 360,000 kilowatt-hours of electricity each year. This amount of electricity would otherwise have required 100,000 litres of diesel to be used by the town's generators.

Went to the local dump point before continuing south and camping down near the water and bridge on Coopers Creek.
Coopers Creek was named by Charles Sturt in 1845 and said, " Before we finally left the neighbour where our hopes had been so often raised and depressed. I gave the name of Cooper's Creek to that fine watercourse we had so anxiously traced, as proof of my respect for Mr Cooper, the judge of South Australia. I would gladly have laid this creek down as a river, but as it had no current, I did not feel myself justified in doing so."

Some of the locals arrived with an open-sided houseboat on a large trailer and proceeded to lower it into the water. They were heading off fishing and pig shooting for the weekend. I spoke with the owner, who said they could currently travel 15 km up the creek from the bridge.

One of our many joyful hours watching the sun set over Coopers Creek.

Distance 92 km, Total distance 6841 km
 
September 24/25/26/27:
Currently in Longreach having the ute serviced, catching up on shopping and washing.
Distance 318 km, Total distance 7159 km.